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One other peculiarity was the way the ribbon cable was routed through the plastic; there seemed to be a specific slot for this (2), but it had been sent through a wider opening (1) - was this intentional during assembly or a mistake? It did actually seem better through the larger opening. There are two other situations here which don't apply to this question. All the following situations shall not damage the device or host, and both the device and host shall resume normal TX/RX communication after any of the following events. Hot-Plug Capable Hosts/Devices shall not suffer any electrical damage, or permanent electrical degradation, and shall resume compliant Tx/Rx operations after the applicable OOB operations, following the Hot-Plug Events. As there exists various Hot-Plug events, there are relevant electrical and operational limitations for each of those types of events. I couldn't see how to actually remove the lid hinges from the top section of the player (there are essentially three layers of plastic: the base, the layer beneath the CD, and the lid), and this needed to be done in order to gain access to one last remaining screw. I have now dismantled the player and tried various things to test and get it into working order, but with little overall success.

Additionally, it serves as a minijack/i2c adapter - the main use case for this is to have the ability to connect 16n faderbank, but you could also use 2 TXb to connect i2c between different rows or cases (just remember to keep the distance short). Certain non-PC-compatible systems (like the Radio Shack Color Computer) did actually use floppies without the cable twist, but required manually setting the jumpers, and could indeed use four drives at once. Note that all of the below ONLY applies to host and devices (ie, drive controllers and drives) that BOTH declare they are hot plug capable. The cable twist allows both floppy drives to be configured identically (for drive selection) when installed (for manufacturing convenience), yet operationally, can be uniquely selected as either the first drive or the second drive based on cable position. It can be powered by battery or a 6v power supply.

So if you plug in the power first, the drive turns on, recognizes there's no data cable, and waits for the data cable to be attached. They are designed so when data is connected without power, some limited drive information can still be obtained (this is mostly used in RAID and backup setups where you want to keep some disks offline to reduce wear and tear, but still need to know what's installed). This is totally doable, but we don't want to mess with the setting of the drives, just want to throw them into the PC case and plug in the cables. Teletype provides both, but keep in mind that the earlier revisions (with green PCB) can only support 2-3 followers reliably, and if you get dropped connections or Teletype freezing when using i2c you might want to use a powered busboard. Use a file to route a groove for the cable to sit in (I chose one of the screw holes). Next, use a jewellers flat head screwdriver to slowly and carefully lever the battery terminals out of the battery compartment.

Don't forget to bend up the retaining tabs on the inside so you can pry the terminals free (you may also need to heat up and remove some solder on the terminal tabs to be able to do this). Once you've removed all the screws, snip the wires on the battery terminals and lift everything out to one side. They're the sort of thing you might see for sale at a much cheaper price in a charity shop/thrift store, if you're patient enough to wait for one to appear. Or maybe because I used a different ground to the one specified in the guide (would that even make a difference? I didn't think it would matter). This guide here explains how to wire things up to the Pi and get it all working. I used a permanent ink pen to make a mark through the pi mounting holes and I didn't get them all completely lined up, so maybe it would be smarter to measure them out first. Once is was all snugly closed up, for a finished touch I used a Dymo Label maker to make a 32-BIT label to stick over the hole where the old controller wire used to be.

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